Sunday, July 3, 2016

The Meeting of the Mates


Such a rendezvous seemed more typically the stuff of spy stories and mystery novels than the activity of retired merchant seamen.  Two middle age men, who had met briefly three decades earlier and who would not recognize each other today, were both traveling to a prearranged meeting point in midtown Manhattan for a discussion over dinner.  The thought of it made me smile, and also remember the first James Bond book that I had read many years ago.  It was You Only Live Twice, by Ian Fleming.  I bought this book in a small shop on a side street in Napoli not far from the Stazione Maritima when the Rigel was docked there one day in the summer of 1979.  Subsequently, I read all of Ian Fleming’s James Bond stories aboard ship.  At the time, I considered this to be an important part of my education in the humanities.

Silly thoughts like these filled my mind on Monday, March 28, 2016, as I rode the train westward from Mineola into Manhattan.  More seriously, I wondered how we would recognize each other after so many years.  For this purpose, I wore my Waccamaw hat, something I don’t often do.  I had previously lost my Furman hat, and I did not want to risk losing another irreplaceable item of memorabilia.  But today was a special occasion.  Arriving in Penn Station, I disembarked and walked the short distance to our meeting point, the Rare Bar & Grill at 152 West 26th Street, just off Seventh Avenue.  I paused at the big sign in front.  After a quick exchange of text messages, my friend emerged from the restaurant and invited me inside.  Rendezvous accomplished.

Walter Burke and I had last met 32 years earlier aboard the oceanographic survey ship Bartlett in Port Everglades when I relieved him as second mate.

On Friday, October 12, 1984, I departed from La Guardia Airport in New York aboard an Eastern Airlines A-300 and flew over the Atlantic Ocean to Fort Lauderdale, Florida.  It was an uneventful nonstop flight, and it landed at the Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport on time at 3:00pm.  Boots James, a former shipmate from the Waccamaw who was now posted aboard the Bartlett, met me at the airport and drove me to the ship in a rental car.  The Bartlett rested alongside the wharf on the east side of the Port Everglades basin and adjacent to Burt and Jack’s, the famous high-style restaurant that overlooked the harbor.  I had a 45-days-old chief mate’s license, and I felt very fortunate to be getting a job as second mate so soon after passing the license exams.

Once aboard the Bartlett I was duly logged in and introduced to the shipboard luminaries.  Captain Kim L. Giaccardo was the Master.  Richard Carlson was chief mate.  Walter Burke was second mate.  Joe Bogusis was third mate.  Boots James was the purser.  Walter had been on board for a year and had travelled to South America and back.  Soon he would head home while I took his place.  I spent Friday afternoon and a large part of Saturday with Walter.  He showed me around the ship, told me what my new job would be like, and introduced me to everyone else on board.  It was a very pleasant occasion, filled with good food, amiable conversation, and high hopes for the future.   

Five days earlier, I had reached the age of 27.  I had just under three years left to achieve my goal of receiving the Master’s license before turning 30.  Despite the gradually deteriorating employment situation in the Merchant Marine, the future looked bright enough for me to have every expectation of realizing my goal.  To this end, I planned to remain aboard the Bartlett for a good long time and possibly relieve Mr. Carlson as chief mate when he went home on vacation.  If someone with prophetic capabilities had told me then how the future would really turn out, I daresay I would have dismissed his predictions as sheer nonsense.

My time with Walter was limited to these two days.  Then he left for his vacation.  He and I had crossed paths once previously.  When I had joined the Waccamaw in Augusta Bay, Sicily, in June of 1982, Walter was third mate on the Rigel with my classmate Owen Clarke as chief mate and Captain Rigobello as Master.  The two ships were tied up directly across the pier from each other, which made for easy visiting.  This served as a common memory for us during our brief acquaintance on the Bartlett.  Then, with the business of relieving him concluded, Walter went his way and I went mine.  I spent the next five and a half months as second mate aboard the Bartlett.  The ship made oceanographic survey voyages in the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico.  Besides Fort Lauderdale, the ship made port calls in Key West, Florida, and Gulfport, Mississippi.  After experiencing some initial nervousness about beginning a new assignment, I became quite comfortable in my position.  The Bartlett was a good ship with a good crew, and I enjoyed sailing on her.  Now, many years later, I have happy memories of this time.

Such memories were what brought Walter and me together again.  Discussing the good old days at first via email, we found much common ground.  In many cases we had sailed on the same ships with the same Masters and the same mates, but at different times.  We had never sailed together, and our paths crossed only twice.  Like me, Walter had served aboard the Mercury, the Rigel, the Kane, and the Saturn.  Additionally, he had sailed aboard the Vega and the Truckee, two that I had missed.  He had also sailed with several of the great men of the fleet, including Captain Rigobello, Captain Iaccabacci, and the tragically late Captain Linardich.  And finally, we had both sailed aboard the Bartlett, one after another, with the now also sadly deceased Captain Giaccardo.

Unlike me, Walter had left the shipping business voluntarily in 1986 to pursue his second career on Wall Street.  I hung on to the end, when my illness and the failing job market combined to put me ashore in search of my own second career.  Now our ships are gone, many of our shipmates are gone, and our company headquarters in Bayonne is also gone.  But the memories remain.  And so, over a sumptuous dinner in a quiet corner of the Rare Bar and Grill in midtown Manhattan, we shared our memories and reminisced about the good old days.

They really were good days, too, although I recognize that more now than I did at the time.  Ironically, with the deteriorating vision that accompanies middle age, hindsight becomes twenty-twenty.  With this clear retrospective, Walter and I ate and talked.  The recollections transported us back through time and across the seas.  We talked of voyages we had made, places we had visited, colleagues we had known, and ambitions we had shared.  The people, the places, and the ships sailed back and forth across the table.  Two men in their fifties, who had known each other only slightly when in their twenties and who had not spoken to each other in three decades, discussed enough to fill a book.

We talked about coming ashore, our second careers, our families, and our homes.  Like so many of our shipmates, we had made the transition from the sea to the shore and had done well in our new professions.  We discussed the sad times, too.  Walter had been at work on Wall Street during the terrorist attack on the World Trade Center in 2001. We also mourned the loss of the freighter El Faro and her crew in 2015.  Graduates of both our schools lost their lives in this tragedy.

One thing which in hindsight particularly impressed us was the level of responsibility that we had borne aboard ship.  Our employer placed great faith in us and in many other young mates just like us.  We were so young then, not long out of our teens, and on watch aboard a ship at sea we carried a burden of responsibility largely unmatched by young men in jobs ashore.  A single mistake on our parts could have produced devastating results.  But our superiors had confidence in our capabilities and entrusted millions of dollars’ worth of ships and cargo as well as many men’s lives to us.    

Like a scene in a Conradian novel, our private party took place on a island surrounded by seawater and in a city that had once ranked as one of the world’s busiest seaports:  

This could have occurred nowhere but in England, where men and the sea
interpenetrate, so to speak—the sea entering into the life of most men,
and the men knowing something or everything about the sea. . . .We were
sitting round a mahogany table that reflected the bottle, the claret glasses,
and our faces as we leaned on our elbows. . . .Between the five of us there
was the strong bond of the sea, and also the fellowship of the craft.[1]

Despite the non-English location, I felt that we and the sea interpenetrated quite intimately; after all, we had come together because of the sea  And while we were two and not five, we certainly knew something of the sea and shared the “bond of the sea” and the “fellowship of the craft.”  These intangible qualities, incomprehensible to the layman and unheard of by the mainstream of a large and mostly inland country, unite in spirit men spread literally around the world aboard the ships that carry the world’s commerce.  United physically for the first time in decades, two of these seamen, like characters in Conrad’s novels, swapped stories, shared memories, and philosophized on the ways of men, ships, and the sea.  It was a very pleasant reunion.

After dinner Walter and I returned to Penn Station and boarded a train for the ride home.  He went to Huntington; I left him halfway there in Mineola.  Our conversation continued to the last possible minute.  Then we bade each other farewell, shook hands, and I disembarked.  Once again, he went his way and I went mine. 

On the walk home from the station, my mind raced with everything that had just taken place.  Thinking again in Conradian terms, I reflected on Walter’s kindness in inviting me to dine and toast the good old days with him.  I was very happy to have met him all those years ago, but sorry that I had never actually sailed with him.  Nonetheless, we belong to the same fraternity, having known the “exactions of the sea”[2] and having endured its “elemental furies.”[3] We had both “made many voyages,”[4] gained “a thorough knowledge of [our] duties,”[5] and had each “become chief mate of a fine ship.”[6]   Decades later, these experiences and memories are precious, even sacred, to both of us.

As I thought back upon this happy reunion I recalled the scriptural injunction, “I exhort you to remember these things. . .” (Moro. 10:27), for these voyages were “ordered for the illustration of life, that might stand for a symbol of existence.”[7]  This is most definitely true.  I simply cannot imagine going through life without going to sea.



[1] Joseph Conrad, “Youth,” in Tales of Land and Sea, Garden City, NY: Hanover House, 1953, p. 7-8.
[2] Joseph Conrad, Lord Jim, Garden City, NY: Doubleday & Company, Inc., p. 6.
[3] Ibid.
[4] Ibid.
[5] Ibid.
[6] Ibid.
[7] Joseph Conrad, “Youth,” op. cit., p. 8.

Sunday, June 5, 2016

Sunset At Sea


This series of photographs was taken aboard the ferry John H on our voyage from New London, Connecticut, to Orient Point, Long Island, on Friday, November 1, 2013.  This was the voyage on which I saw the green flash.  The atmospheric conditions provided perfectly for a magnificent late afternoon, sunset, and twilight on the water.  While I think the pictures turned out well, they nonetheless remain an insufficiently broad canvas to truly capture the vastness and the colors of the open sea and sky.  Also, I was unable to get a photograph of the green flash.  These points demonstrate that there is simply no substitute for actually being at sea.

As is my habit, I spent the entire crossing on the outside decks of the ship, insatiably imbibing the beauty of the sea and sky, and wishing that I were making either a transatlantic or a transpacific voyage instead of an all-too-short milk run.  Brief as it was, though, the crossing served as a wonderful respite from driving in the Friday night traffic, a momentary victory of the supernal over the secular. 













Sunday, May 29, 2016

The Green Flash


The General Hoyt S. Vandenberg steamed southeast at a leisurely eleven knots across the South Atlantic between Ascension Island and South Africa in late September of 1979.  A clear sky, a mild temperature, excellent visibility, and a calm and bright blue sea served as the daily standard in these subequatorial latitudes.  Classified as a range instrumentation vessel, the General Vandenberg conducted vital national defense missions for the federal government.  For this purpose, she carried an army of technicians who worked with a large assortment of electronic gadgets. Most of the crew, myself included, knew little or nothing of what these technicians actually did.  We just sailed the ship for them. 

In the late afternoon one day, several technicians gathered on the outside deck near the starboard bridge wing to watch the Sun set.  The second mate, an older man named George Hebb, stood on the bridge wing, and seeing the technicians gathering, called down to them: “Get some binoculars and watch carefully as the Sun goes down.  The conditions look good today.  You should see the green flash.”

Dumbfounded by this suggestion, they asked George what he was talking about.  He then explained the green flash to them.  In response, they exchanged puzzled expressions with raised eyebrows and laughed at him.  Finally, one of the technicians asked him bluntly, “Have you been drinking?”

“No!!  I have not been drinking!!” thundered the insulted second mate at his skeptical audience.  “What do you take me for?  A Bowery bum?  You guys want to be called scientists and you don’t know how the world works?  Just watch when the Sun sets and you’ll see what I’m talking about!!”

Normally a very congenial and mild mannered man, George Hebb seldom got annoyed. His outburst silenced the “scientists,” however, and they waited and watched the Sun quietly.  Binoculars in hand, I waited and watched, too, as did George on the bridge wing above.  The Sun set slowly, and as predicted, just when the upper limb approached the horizon, the small remaining section of the Sun turned bright green for perhaps two or three seconds.  Then the  Sun set completely, and it was all over.

The assembled technicians had seen the green flash, and so they now believed what the second mate had told them.  Also, they no longer questioned his sobriety.  Vindication!  But their initial reaction on hearing about the green flash was actually quite typical.  Most folks have never heard of the green flash and have never seen it, and as ignorant people often do, they ridicule what they do not know and have not experienced.  Thirty-seven years after this event aboard the General Vandenberg, the green flash has new credibility in the form of a Wikipedia article[1] and YouTube videos[2].  I’ll stand by the simple and straightforward description set down in the American Practical Navigator, however:

As light from the sun passes through the atmosphere, it is refracted.  Since the amount of bending is slightly different for each color, separate images of the sun are formed in each color of the spectrum.  However, the difference is so slight that the effect is not usually noticeable.  At the horizon, where refraction is maximum, the greatest difference, which occurs between violet at one end of the spectrum and red at the other, is about 10 seconds of arc.  At latitudes of the United States, about 0.7 second of time is needed for the sun to change altitude by this amount when it is near the horizon.  The red image, being bent least by refraction, is the first to set and last to rise.  The shorter wave blue and violet colors are scattered most by the atmosphere, giving it its characteristic blue color.  Thus, as the sun sets, the green image may be the last of the colored images to drop out of sight.  If the red, orange, and yellow images are below the horizon, and the blue and violet light is scattered and absorbed, the upper rim of the green image is the only part seen, and the sun appears green.  This is the green flash.

The phenomenon is not observed at each sunrise or sunset, but under suitable conditions is far more common than generally supposed.  Conditions favorable to observation of the green flash are a sharp horizon, clear atmosphere, a temperature inversion, and an attentive observer.  Since these conditions are more frequently met when the horizon is formed by sea than by land, the phenomenon is more common at sea.[3]

I have seen the green flash many times aboard several ships.  Day after day aboard the General Vandenberg in the South Atlantic, the green flash was clearly visible.  Aboard the Rigel and the Waccamaw in the North Atlantic and the Mediterranean, the green flash was a fairly common event.  I’ve never seen it in the Pacific or the Caribbean, though, nor in the far North Atlantic or the North Sea.  But each time the green flash occurs, it is a magnificent sight to behold, however briefly.  The green flash proves the point that:

They that go down to the sea in ships, that do business in great waters;
These see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep (Ps. 107:23-24).

How fortunate my shipmates and I were to repeatedly witness such a spectacle!  Such a simple and small thing—the last sliver of the Sun changing color from orange to green for the last few seconds of its setting.  Then it disappears below the horizon, and the twilight gradually turns into darkness.  This is the daily transition from daylight to nighttime, and the green flash plays a small but significant role in the drama.  The “wonders in the deep” indeed!

After my Merchant Marine career drew to a close, I thought that I would most likely never see the green flash again.  And, in fact, I did not see it for many years.  Then, quite unexpectedly and in a very unlikely place, I did once again enjoy this opportunity.

Miss Patty and I sailed aboard the ferry John H from New London, Connecticut, to Orient Point, Long Island, on Friday, November 1, 2013.  The ship left New London at 5:00pm, when the Sun was low in the western sky.  While the vessel was crossing the eastern end of Long Island Sound, the Sun cast its low altitude light on a scattered collection of altocumulus and stratocumulus clouds.  This illuminated the sky in a wild assortment of vivid blue, yellow, orange, and pink.  It was a truly spectacular sight.  I remained out on deck to watch this display, and to see the Sun set as well.  As the Sun dropped closer to the horizon, I began to wonder if there would be any chance of seeing the green flash.  The conditions looked good for it.  The air was clear, the visibility excellent, the horizon sharp, but somehow Long Island Sound seemed an unlikely place for it.

Nevertheless, I waited and watched as the Sun approached the horizon and started to set.  Even without any green it was still a magnificent and breathtaking sight.  Then, as the upper limb came down closer to the horizon, I looked more carefully, even to the point of eyestrain, hoping but not expecting to see the flash once again.  Finally, it happened.  Small and faint and fast, the green started in the corners and in a second filled the center of the remaining Sun.  Then it all disappeared as the Sun set completely.  It was quite literally a flash.  It lasted at most a second and a half.  The twilight lingered for a while as the now set Sun illuminated the clouds from below the horizon.  This faded gradually as night came over the sea.  When the John H docked in Orient Point at 6:30pm, the sky was fully dark.

The green flash demonstrates a few points above and beyond the laws of physics as they are described in Bowditch.  First, it illustrates the folly of human wisdom.  The technicians aboard the General Vandenberg laughed at a fully competent licensed officer who knew his astronomy, but he had the proverbial last laugh when Nature irrefutably proved him right.  More importantly, this episode proves one of the laws of truth.  If something is true, then it is true even if someone doesn’t believe it; even if no one believes it, it remains true.

Finally, the green flash speaks to us spiritually.  As one of the many beauties of the natural world, it bears mute testimony to the scientific and artistic genius of a divine Creator.  It calls to mind the Psalmist’s famous exclamation, “The heavens declare the glory of God” (Ps. 19:1), a thought that occurs to me often when I gaze skyward.  No mere human could design, let alone create, the world and the universe that we inhabit.  And yet, we are privileged to enjoy this beauty in the same way that we would study the work of a famous artist.  Many such studies of the heavens have been made, and they have yielded extensive scientific knowledge.  Nonetheless, there remains something transcendent and ineffable about this realm.  In the end, perhaps the best we can do is acknowledge as the Prophet did that:

The heavens were opened upon us, and [we] beheld the celestial kingdom of God, and the glory thereof (D&C 137:1).


[1] See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green_flash.
[2] A few of these are very good; many are mediocre; and some are obvious fakes.
[3] Nathaniel Bowditch (original author), American Practical Navigator: An Epitome of Navigation, Volume 1, Washington, DC, Defense Mapping Agency Hydrographic Center, Publication No. 9, 1977, p. 882.  This book has been issued in many editions, revisions, and expansions  since its first publication in 1802, and has served as the standard reference work for Merchant Marine officers throughout its lifetime.  Aboard ship it is referred to simply as “Bowditch.”

Monday, May 2, 2016

A Perfect Night


The Northeast Regional rolled smoothly along the historic Shore Line, the railroad that has connected Boston and New York since the 1850s, in the late afternoon and early evening of Wednesday, April 20, 2016.  I had made this journey many times over the years.  Now I was going once more to visit my aged and infirm parents on Long Island.  I had not expected today’s transit of the Shore Line to be much different from any other’s, but the time of day and the workings of Nature played upon my mind and carried me far out to sea.

The train left Boston in broad daylight at 5:35pm.  Just over an hour later, it came alongside the shore of Greenwich Bay in Chepiwanoxet, Rhode Island.  Turning inland for a spell, it next came along the shore of Fishers Island Sound in Mystic and Noank, Connecticut.  After crossing the Thames River, the train stopped adjacent to the commercial shipping piers and the ferry docks in New London.  Then, rolling westward through Connecticut, the train hugged the shore of Long Island Sound at three of my favorite locations: Niantic Beach, Rocky Neck, and the mouth of the Connecticut River between Old Lyme and Old Saybrook.  In all these spots I gazed seaward, and out of a long standing shipboard habit, I took note of the meteorological conditions. 

The elements of Nature did their work as the Northeast Regional made its westward trek toward New York.  A cloudless blue sky and a clear atmosphere afforded excellent visibility.  The North Shore of Long Island lay clearly discernible across the Sound’s great expanse of dark blue water.  The bright daylight gradually mellowed into a gentle twilight as the Sun moved ever farther to the west.  Finally, the moment of metamorphosis arrived.  The train sailed alongside the sea as the Sun set among the hills of western Connecticut and the full Moon rose from the hills of eastern Connecticut.  Sunset on the port bow and moonrise on the port quarter, I thought, as if I were at sea.

The twilight gradually became night as the Sun dropped farther below the horizon, but the darkness did not become complete.  The Moon in its fullness reflected the Sun’s light and cast it down to the Earth.  It was a supernal sight.  Reacting once again as if I were at sea, I thought of taking stars.  There would of course be the routine of star sights at evening, and later, morning twilight.  But with these outstanding conditions—the cloudless sky, the clear air, the unlimited visibility, and the full Moon to illuminate the horizon—there would be a further opportunity for midnight stars as well.  The conditions were just right.  It would be, for navigational purposes, a perfect night!  The third mate on the 12:00 to 4:00 watch could use this quiet time to practice his craft and perfect his skill by taking sights of Rigel, Betelgeuse, Vega, Capella, Regulus, and the ever stationary Polaris.

These and other celestial luminaries were my best friends in the long hours of many night watches.  I thought back to one transatlantic voyage in particular, aboard the Victoria in the summer of 1981, when the conditions were just right, night after night, for midnight stars.  Dutifully taking up my sextant shortly after the change of the watch, I made the rounds of the heavens and took sights of six or seven stars each night.  I always felt that I was working in communion with Creation itself when I did this.  Alone on the bridge wing of a cargo ship in mid-Atlantic just after midnight, I was always aware of a spiritual persona that emanated from the primal elements of the sea and sky that surrounded me.  In this other-worldly realm, I relied on the absolute infallibility of Nature as I calculated the ship’s position on the trackless sea with mathematical precision.  Afterwards the helmsman always asked me, “Well, mate, are the stars all in their right places tonight?”  I assured him that they were, and that the Victoria was, too.

My thoughts were suddenly brought back to the present when the Northeast Regional rumbled across the long bridge over the Connecticut River.  The Saybrook Lighthouse at Lynde Point, at the mouth of the river, was clearly visible, as were the distant shore lights on Long Island.  The Moon had risen farther and now hung high in the southeast and cast its reflected sunlight earthward.  A beautiful evening on Long Island Sound. 

Across the bridge and now leaving the waterfront behind, the Northeast Regional continued west to its stop in New Haven.  Underway again, it glided through a brightly lit suburban landscape.  Then, unexpectedly and between stations, it eased to a halt in a dark and somewhat wooded area.  The conductor announced that due to track repairs, the train would wait momentarily for the eastbound Acela Express to pass, and then it would cross over to the adjacent track and continue westward.

During this brief interlude the interior lights in the passenger cars shut off.  This left only the dim glow of a few emergency lights, and so it became easier to see outside into the darkness.  The Moon shone in its fullness; otherwise, the sky was black.  But then, as my eyes adjusted to the changed conditions, a single star came into view.  It shone in the south, at perhaps 35 or 40 degrees of elevation.  Once more, I thought of taking midnight stars aboard the Victoria and other ships.  For the few minutes that my train waited in the darkness for the other train to pass, I sat transfixed by the night sky and felt myself again transported seaward under a canopy of celestial bodies.  And it was indeed a perfect night at sea.

All too soon the Acela Express rushed past in the opposite direction, and the Northeast Regional resumed its journey, rolling through the switches and settling onto the adjacent track.  Two more glimpses of salt water remained for me, first in Bridgeport, and finally while crossing the East River between the Bronx and Queens.  Soon after that my voyage reached its conclusion, and I reluctantly disembarked in Penn Station.

But the thought of a perfect night at sea remained with me.  I had passed many such nights aboard many ships.  All these years later, I still think back on them.  Nighttime at sea has a unique beauty and a very different way of touching the human soul.  The night speaks in a subtle manner but asserts that the Master and Chief Engineer of the universe is fully in command of everything.  He is watching over the world and watching over us.  He invites us to commune with him, and we can invite him to commune with us.

One hymn, with two minor modifications, expresses this thought particularly well:

                        Abide with me; ’tis eventide.
                        The day is past and gone;
                        The shadows of the evening fall;
                        The night is coming on.
                        Within my heart a welcome guest,
                        [Aboard my ship] abide.

                        Abide with me; ’tis eventide,
                        And lone will be the night
                        If I cannot commune with thee
                        Nor find in thee my light.
                        The darkness of the world, I fear,
                        Would [on my ship] abide.

                        O Savior, stay this night with me;
                        Behold, ’tis eventide.[1]

At our invitation, “the true Light, which lighteth every man” (John 1:9) will abide with us all night.  The myriad stars of the night sky symbolize this Light and thereby provide spiritual solace as well as navigational accuracy.  They command the navigator’s respect when he takes his sightings and calculates his ship’s location on the vast ocean.  They command the world’s respect always as they represent the ultimate Light.  If we welcome this Light that “shineth in darkness” (John 1:5) as a permanent guest at every eventide, then every night will be a perfect night.

[1] M. Lowrie Hofford, “Abide with Me; ’Tis Eventide,” in Hymns of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, Salt Lake City: The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, 1985, no. 165.  The original lyrics replaced by the bracketed ones are “Within my home” and “in my home.”

Tuesday, April 12, 2016

Epilogue


A chill wind blew from the west across the flat plain of the Saint Charles Cemetery in Farmingdale, Long Island, on a bright and sunny Tuesday after Easter, March 29, 2016.  Two days earlier the Christian world had celebrated the resurrection of our Lord from the tomb.  How appropriate that seemed now.

I stood at the burial spot of Captain Virgilio Rigobello and gazed at the stone that bore his name.  He lay interred with his wife Marie, her sister Joan, and several other relatives.  Standing at the grave with me were his niece and nephew, Ann and Thomas.  I was their guest as they showed me the family grave and told me the family stories about their beloved “Uncle Alex.”

It had been 37 years since Captain Rigobello and I had first met aboard the freighter Rigel in Norfolk, Virginia.  Much had happened in both our lives in this long interval.  Our paths had crossed again in the 1980s aboard the tanker Waccamaw.  Now, in a more sublime and supernal way, they were crossing once more.  I felt his spirit as I read his name on the stone, and I sensed that he was pleased to see me again after all these years.  And I was pleased to be there.  Furthermore, I felt honored that his niece and nephew would take the time to meet with me and bring me into their family circle.  We lingered at the grave despite the wind.  Finally, we adjourned to a nearby Italian restaurant for lunch and continued conversation.

Ann’s and Tom’s affection for their Uncle Alex was heartwarming.  They described him in much the same way that I had known him: intelligent, patient, modest, caring, forgiving, kind-hearted, and good-natured, and also as a devoted father and uncle who loved his family, loved children, and loved life.  For their part, Ann and Tom welcomed me into their private world in much the same way that Captain Rigobello had welcomed me aboard the Rigel in 1979.  They extended the highest level of congeniality and hospitality to me.  In this way they proved themselves a credit to their Uncle Alex.

I listened to Ann’s and Tom’s family stories with great interest.  They told me of good times and bad times, of their Uncle Alex’ extensive voyages at sea and his vacations at home, of his professional achievements and his personal joys and sorrows.  As a licensed Merchant Marine officer he had enjoyed an illustrious career followed by a well-earned retirement.  Then it ended as all lives do.  He lost his beloved wife Marie to cancer in 1994.  Following this, he took care of her infirm younger sister Joan.  Then, after fourteen years of widowhood, he passed away himself in 2008.  It pained me to hear of his final illness.  If I had only known at the time, I most certainly would have gone to visit him.

Instead, I visited his grave.  Bright colored Easter flowers, traditional symbols of faith, hope, and love, decorated the site.  Bright sunshine illuminated the stone and the surrounding earth, the astronomical light of the world symbolizing the divine Light of the world that illuminates all life.  The setting led me to think of the sea, a place to which my mind frequently wanders.  I could easily see myself aboard ship once more with Captain Rigobello.

When I returned to work two days later, I could scarcely concentrate.  I was physically present but mentally absent.  My mind had once again wandered off to sea.  I saw myself on the bridge wing of the Waccamaw on a transatlantic voyage.  Sextant in hand, I studied the sky to the southeast, waiting patiently for Arcturus to appear in the gradually deepening twilight.  Captain Rigobello came up to the bridge to check on things after dinner.  He saw me taking the first sight in the evening round of stars and nodded approvingly.  He glanced briefly at the radar and scanned the horizon.  Satisfied that all was well, and again entrusting the safe navigation of this great ship to me, he turned and went below.  I continued with my star sights, finishing as usual with Polaris.

Then darkness descended on the sea.  Penetrating this now black world were myriad pinpoints of white light from the heavens, the guiding stars upon which navigators depend.  Likewise, penetrating the darkness of the grave is the happy memory of a great man.  While gone from us physically, he nonetheless continues to illuminate the minds of his family, friends, and colleagues.  Lux perpetua caeli luceat ei.  May the perpetual light of Heaven shine upon him.

Sunday, March 13, 2016

For unto us a Child Is Born


The travels of my vagabond youth took me to many interesting, famous, and exotic places, but never to South America.  The closest I came to this continent was the Panama Canal aboard the Mercury and the Comet.  Also, I missed going to South America when I joined the General Hoyt S. Vandenberg.  She had shed a third mate in Recife, Brazil, and sailed short-staffed.  I caught up with the ship when she arrived at Ascension Island in the South Atlantic several days later.  And so it was with some sense of adventure and with the excitement of departing for a new destination that I boarded a Tam Airlines 767 at Kennedy Airport in New York on Monday, February 1, 2016.  This airship conveyed me overnight some 4,500 miles southeast to São Paulo, Brazil.  A subsequent domestic flight aboard a Tam A-321 then carried me 900 miles northeast to Salvador.  Finally, an automobile brought me about 100 kilometers to Alagoinhas.

An inland, medium size, working class municipality with a distinctly Brazilian atmosphere, Alagoinhas would never be mistaken for one of the great cities of the world.  Not a crossroads of history, nor a seat of great political power, nor a cultural center with major universities and learned societies, Alagoinhas nonetheless now stands out as one of the most important places on the Earth.  For it was in Alagoinhas that Baby Lydia Elizabeth was born on Wednesday, January 13, 2016.  The future of our family had arrived, and I traveled there to meet her.

Miss Patty had gone ahead of me.  She had arrived in Alagoinhas on January 14.  She now met me at the airport in Salvador, accompanied by our son-in-law Renato Araújo and his father Adilson.  They brought us initially to a churrascaria, a buffet-style restaurant where I had my first experience of Brazilian hospitality and Brazilian cuisine.  Both were most impressive; I was welcomed as an honored guest.  Then, with Adilson driving, the four of us proceeded north from Salvador to Alagoinhas, and on arrival there we stopped in front of Miss Karen’s and Renato’s house on Rua H.  Our girl was hanging laundry to dry on her spacious front porch when we arrived.  Baby Lydia was sleeping peacefully indoors.

Rua H brought back memories for me.  A quiet, narrow, and hilly street in the old world style, it was lightly traveled by pedestrians, motor scooters, horse-drawn carriages, and automobiles.  In the background, the neighbors’ roosters crowed periodically.  Rua H resembled the myriad residential streets and alleys of southern Europe and the West Indies.  The house fit this picture perfectly.  Architecturally a blend of the Spanish Caribbean and the Italian Mediterranean, it sported a beautiful front porch with grated wall apertures, three steps leading up from the street, and three further steps leading up to the front entryway.  Large, light brown tiles graced the floor, red Mediterranean tiles supported by a wooden grid formed the roof, and concrete-covered Brazilian brick painted in a Caribbean pastel green made up the walls.  It conveyed a sense of cool tropical hospitality remarkable in a torrid climate.  I felt at home immediately.

But I had not come all this way just to admire a house.  The star of the day, of course, was Baby Lydia, and I had the honor of meeting her inside.  She looked every inch a South American—all twenty inches of her—with her fair skin, blue eyes, and light brown hair.  A little while later, this brown hair all fell out and was replaced by bright blond hair, which further advertised her maternal Germanic-Celtic heritage.   In the Brazilian state of Bahia, this little girl stood out in the crowd!

For the next week Miss Patty and I helped our daughter with her daughter, and with keeping house—the cooking, the cleaning, the shopping, etc.  One afternoon, in a further expression of Brazilian hospitality, Renato’s parents hosted a large family feast at their house.  It was a wonderful week that passed by much too quickly, a week with long hours, many busy times, and several quiet times for contemplation as well.  Everything I did to help out with the new baby I had done previously with my own children.  I thought of this often, especially as it had involved Miss Karen.  It felt like she herself had been born only about six months ago, and here she was, still my little baby girl, but with a little baby girl of her own!  How did this happen so quickly?  I remembered the many times that I had fed her, diapered her, dressed her, rocked her to sleep, read stories to her, taken her for walks, taken her to the pediatrician, and so on.  Now she was doing all this and more with her own little girl, Baby Lydia Elizabeth.  The cycle of life was demonstrating itself.  I was moving up the scale to grandparenthood, in the second of now four living generations in our family.

Baby Lydia spent many hours sitting on my lap, and as I held her and gazed upon her, many thoughts crossed my mind.  A perfectly innocent and beautiful child of God, she had come into this life to be with us.  She had come down from Heaven—descendit de caelis[1]—and had the look of divinity itself on her face.  “Every child is a gift from God,” as Mother Teresa had so often said, and Baby Lydia seemed to be an exceptionally precious gift.  We, her family, bore a serious moral obligation to treat her well, provide for her properly, protect her from harm, and give her every advantage to succeed in her new life.  All of us would share this responsibility.  As her parents, however, Miss Karen and Renato would bear the bulk of the responsibility, and thus they would have the most important jobs in the family.

Baby Lydia got off to a good start in this regard, surrounded by parents and grandparents who loved her and cared about her.  Her paternal grandparents, Adilson and Eunadia, lived within walking distance in the same neighborhood, and they came to see her frequently.  Also, her three uncles—Miss Karen’s bodyguards when they were younger—now styled themselves “Lydia’s Army.”  Her great-grandparents, now in their 90s and too infirm to travel, had sent their love with us.  They would later admire their new baby via Skype and Face Time and other technological wizardry that they appreciate but don’t understand.  And my mother would again ask her famous rhetorical question, “How can anyone look at a newborn baby and not believe in God?”

Baby Lydia came to The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints in downtown Alagoinhas with her family on Sunday morning.  She wore the now somewhat off-white christening gown that Miss Karen and her three brothers and my brother and I had worn many years ago.  This garment thus dated to 1949.  It had been selected and purchased by Baby Lydia’s great-great-grandparents in New Jersey, my mother’s parents, Robert Burns and Julia Murphy.  I’m certain that they and many other ancestors and relatives were watching approvingly from their celestial vantage point as Baby Lydia received her blessing and was accepted into the Christian flock.

The church services, of which the christening was a part, were conducted in Portuguese, a language that I unfortunately do not understand.  My mind wandered, then, first to the Latin of Saint Jerome—Parvulus enim natus est nobis, filius datus est nobis[2]—and then with some literary license to the English of King James:

                        For unto us a child is born, unto us a daughter is given:
                        and the government of the family shall be upon her shoulder:
                        and her name shall be called Wonderful, Counselor,
the mighty Goddess, the everlasting grandchild,
the Princess of the Family.[3]

My apologies to the Prophet Isaiah, but I thought these verses fit the circumstances perfectly!

After the Sunday service and amid much picture-taking, felicitous parishioners greeted the family and admired Baby Lydia.  Every day, friends, neighbors, and relatives came to the house on Rua H to visit the new parents and pay homage to the new baby.  Miss Karen and Miss Patty, both preoccupied with Baby Lydia, dispatched me to the front door to greet the guests.  Blatantly deficient in Portuguese, I resorted to the Italian I had learned in my Rigel and Waccamaw days:  “Buongiorno!  Bienvenito!  Vedi mia bellissima bambinetta!”  It had previously worked like a charm in the airports of São Paulo and Salvador, and it did likewise on Rua H.  I learned that providentially, of all the Romance languages, Portuguese and Italian bore the closest resemblance to one other.

When the guests had gone and the house became quiet, I had my moments of communion and contemplation with my new little baby girl.  With my visit so short and the distance from New Hampshire so long, I gazed into Miss Lydia’s angelic face and wondered, “When will I ever see this little girl again?”  I could not answer that, of course, but I hoped it would be sooner than next year.  In the meantime, though, I could look at her to my heart’s temporary content.

It occurred to me that there was something truly ineffable about becoming a grandfather and beholding my new granddaughter resting peacefully on my lap.  There was much to think about, but little to say.  It seemed best, then, to simply maintain a reverent silence, to gaze in awe at this little girl, to contemplate the designs of God, and to pray that his blessing will forever be upon her.

With great melancholy, Miss Patty and I took our leave of Baby Lydia late in the morning of Monday, February 8.  Adilson and Eunadia drove us back to the airport in Salvador.  Renato and his brother Alexandre met us there after work.  After a farewell luncheon together, it was time for us to go.  We boarded a Tam Airlines A-321 for the flight to Rio de Janeiro, where we would change aircraft for the overnight flight to New York.

The same Brazilian hospitality that welcomed me on my arrival in Salvador now had the last word as I left Salvador.

The airplane took off to the northeast and then turned right and flew out over the ocean.  Turning right again, the plane remained over the water and paralleled the coast to the southwest.  This was the first I had seen the South Atlantic since I had sailed on it aboard the General Vandenberg in 1979.  It was just as bright and blue in the sunshine now as it had been all those years ago.  After about an hour, the aircraft turned again to fly overland, and the young cabin attendant noticed that we were admiring the mountain range to the west.

This young man’s name was Fernando.  He had blond hair, blue eyes, and light skin, and he spoke fluent Portuguese and excellent English.  He asked us in English if we liked the view, and then the three of us fell into a lengthy conversation.  In the course of describing Brazil to us, he mentioned that he was of German ancestry and that his grandmother had come from Nürnberg.  At this announcement Miss Patty revealed that she, too, had been born in Nürnberg, and the conversation took on a new life.  Switching to German now, Fernando and Miss Patty spoke hurriedly and excitedly like old friends meeting after a long time apart, and they exchanged voluminous information about their German families.  Fernando’s blue eyes sparkled with enthusiasm as he spoke, and his complete fluency in Bavarian-accented German became obvious.  As good as his English was, his German was even better.  Clearly, he had grown up with it.  He spoke German exactly as Miss Patty’s Oma had, and it sounded wonderful after all these years.

Eventually Fernando had to get back to work, but he took every opportunity to return to us and resume the conversation.  When it was time to land and then disembark, Fernando lavished attention on us and very graciously assisted us off the airplane.

Fernando did two things for us.  First, he took our minds off our sad departure from Miss Karen and Baby Lydia.  Second, he reminded us of the supreme importance of the family.  We had traveled thousands of miles to be with family.  Our daughter, our new granddaughter, our son-in-law, our son-in-law’s parents, etc., were all family.  If this were not so, we would have had no reason at all to go to South America.  In his lively conversation with Miss Patty about their German families, Fernando demonstrated that the family’s importance transcends cultures and nationalities and crosses oceans and continents.

Whether Brazilian, German, American, or a combination of all three, "the family is ordained of God."[4] It is “central to the Creator’s plan for the eternal destiny of His children,”[5] and is “the fundamental unit of society”[6] in every society.  We all agreed on these points, and we shared “a sacred duty to rear [Baby Lydia] in love and righteousness.”[7]  As Miss Patty and I returned home, we felt confident that Baby Lydia Elizabeth was in good hands with a good family.


[1] From the Nicene Creed, referring to the birth of the Lord,  This is usually translated as “He came down from Heaven.”  A more literal rendering is “He (or she) descended from the heavens.”
[2] Isaiah 9:6, Biblia Sacra Vulgata.
[3] Based on Isaiah 9:6, King James translation.
[4] “The Family: A Proclamation to the World,” Salt Lake City: The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, General Relief Society Meeting, September 23, 1995.
[5] Ibid.
[6] Ibid.
[7] Ibid.